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Where are we headed? This week, we’re going on a family-friendly walk in Channel Islands Harbor and Hollywood Beach in Oxnard, two coastal gems with ocean breezes… and vociferous wildlife. (We’re talking sea lions!)
Why now? Beach weather is here, and so are the L.A. crowds. Not so in Oxnard, an easy jaunt north off the 101 Freeway that is also served by various rail options. Though Oxnard flies under the radar, the region along this route has long been desirable. Silent movies were shot along its strand, and Clark Gable and Charlie Chaplin were part-time residents, spawning its nickname “Hollywood by the Sea.”
Quickly, what can I expect? An easy 2.9-mile walk that is nearly all flat and paved (although you might want to veer off and sample the wide, sandy beach). And, it you’re lucky, you’ll spot sea lions. (Actually, you might hear them barking and arfing before you see them.)
All that walking could sure work up an appetite: Agreed! We have several options for eating along the route, or when you’re done. There’s the Mrs. Olson’s Coffee Hut or the Hollywood Beach Café, which serves up all the breakfast favorites as well as Channel Island Tots (tater tots covered in cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and of course Thousand Island sauce, all an homage to the Channel Islands that are visible in the distance.) LAist’s Associate Editor for Food and Culture Gab Chabrán also suggests taking a few miles further up the coast to Brophy Bros.’ Ventura location, a spot known for its fish and chips and other seafood delights.
Welcome to LAist City Treks, a series of easy hikes and walks that will help you explore the parts of Los Angeles and SoCal that we rarely get to see — or only see through the car window. Expect to get about 5K steps, and plenty of photos for your social media channels. Keep scrolling, because you’ll also find recommendations for grabbing a bite to eat once you’re finished, so you can make a day of it. If you go, tag us on social media @LAistOfficial and #LAistTreks
For a family-friendly walk through Channel Islands Harbor and Hollywood Beach in Oxnard, two coastal gems with ocean breezes… and vociferous wildlife. (We’re talking sea lions!)
It’s going to be another hot weekend. And we’re looking for ways to stay cool. Oxnard is an easy jaunt north off the 101 Freeway and is also served by various rail options. Though Oxnard flies under the radar, the region along this route has long been desirable. Silent movies were shot along its strand, and Clark Gable and Charlie Chaplin were part-time residents, spawning its nickname “Hollywood by the Sea.”
LAist City Treks writer Paul Haddad is also the author of the L.A. walkers’ bible 10,000 Steps A Day In LA, as well as several nonfiction books including Freewaytopia: How Freeways Shaped Los Angeles. He is currently hosting the following book signing for his new book, Inventing Paradise: The Power Brokers Who Created the Dream of Los Angeles:
Click here and then select “Send directions to your phone.”
Oxnard is a lot of things. As the only deepwater port between L.A. and San Francisco, it’s well-suited for naval bases like Point Hueneme. Its fertile soil boasts world-famous strawberries. And its dunes — or at least, what’s left of them — inspired Paramount Pictures to stick fake palm trees in the sand to double as the Arabian desert in The Sheik, starring the bedroom eyes of Rudolph Valentino. By the mid-1920s, however, Oxnard’s sandy strand was subdivided into the residential neighborhood known today as Hollywood Beach.
Before retracing the footsteps of glitterati ghosts, let’s begin on the leeward side of the peninsula — an area of shops, eateries, and recreational facilities abutting the southern end of Channel Islands Harbor.
Enter the parking lot at 2800 Harbor Blvd. and find your way to Mrs. Olson’s Coffee Hut, a bayside restaurant slinging up breakfast and lunch since 1974. (If you come on a Sunday, consider bringing a cooler and some ice: This lot also hosts a wonderful farmers market between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. that often includes the day’s catch.) Stroll toward the rear of Mrs. Olson’s. On its left-hand side, access the paved walkway that hugs the small-craft marina. Turn right, heading south.
Over the next mile, the walkway offers a sun-kissed stroll past bobbing boat masts along the harborfront. Reminiscent of Marina del Rey, the 310-acre harbor was dredged out of wetlands and sand dunes, resulting in 2,150 boat slips. Check for kiosks among the palm trees and greenbelts that line the pathway.
The placards detail the biodiversity of the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, of which Oxnard is a gateway. Wanna learn more? Pop into the Channel Islands Maritime Museum near the end of the walkway. Look for the statue of the old salt standing under a crow’s nest in its plaza.
One-tenth of a mile past the museum, the palm-lined walkway abruptly ends at a hedge. Time to swing over to the windward side of things!
At the end of the walkway, you’ll notice a cul-de-sac to your right, which marks the end of Albacore Way. Take Albacore’s sidewalk for 150 feet, turning left at the T-intersection with Harbor Boulevard.
Now you’re strolling Harbor’s eastern sidewalk, as it bends toward the mouth of the channel. Benches are conveniently placed to take in boats cruising in and out of the harbor. At Channel View Park you’ll encounter another cul-de-sac — the end of Ocean Drive.
On your right, a triangular median features a giant wood-carved map of the Channel Islands; on your left, by a jetty, are two fiberglass California sea lions commemorating longtime Oxnard resident Bernice “Nell” Wolven, a community leader who died in 1997. The statues are often accompanied by the sound of barking sea lions. Wait a minute, is there a speaker in these things? Nope, you’re hearing the real deal.
Step on the dirt between the cul-de-sac and the jetty. Follow the jetty — or the cacophony of sea lions — for about 20 yards. During a recent visit, I found a dozen of these dogs of the sea raising a ruckus — arfing, tussling, frolicking, posturing, or simply catching some Zs along the rocks. Needless to say, please keep a respectful distance. (Of course, wild animals, like rock stars, operate on their own whims; there’s no guarantee they’ll always show up.)
Leaving the jetty, return to the cul-de-sac and proceed along Ocean Drive, away from the channel. The street has no sidewalk, so take care, but it typically sees as many pedestrians as vehicles in this sleepy residential area.
Back in its Hollywood heyday, this stretch of Ocean consisted of cottages and bungalows, many of which housed movie stars and producers. Now it’s mostly multilevel stucco dwellings, with one standout: a 1920s-era adobe at 3125 Ocean Dr.
Rumor has it Mr. Valentino lived here while shooting The Sheik. The current owner has installed a “CASA VALENTINO” sign on the side of the house. Those wishing to sleep in the same bedroom as Silent Cinema’s famous lover can rent the place out on Airbnb.
Continuing along Ocean, cross-streets such as Las Palmas and La Brea will give L.A. folks a sense of déjà vu. (Ditto streets like Hollywood, Highland, and Cahuenga, farther south.) I guess those old-timey Hollywood types really did want this place to feel like home.
If you can’t leave here without stepping onto the actual beach of Hollywood Beach, you can access the shoreline through any of the public passages on your left. On a clear day, two Channel Islands — Anacapa and Santa Cruz — are visible on the horizon, less than 20 miles away. (Make a mental note: Must visit!) Even if you don’t hit the beach, it will come to you anyway. Ocean Drive literally lies on the edge of the sand — so close that portions of the street are constantly covered in the grainy stuff as it drifts through, between houses.
At Los Altos Street, turn right to explore a tiny but quaint retail block that includes the Hollywood Beach Café. Go left on Sunset Lane, then right on W. Channel Islands Boulevard. In 0.2 miles, the street intersects Harbor Boulevard.
Take the crosswalk across Harbor, which leads to the parking lot from which you started. As for that mental note to visit the Channel Islands? Island Packers Cruises lies a little farther down the lot. The family-run concessionaire offers daily transportation to the islands and will set you up on a fun adventure. My family still talks about the time we kayaked through the sea caves of Anacapa Island and its famous natural arch. Who knew? Now you do!
As noted, you could grab a bite to eat at Mrs. Olson’s Coffee Hut or the Hollywood Beach Café. LAist’s Associate Editor for Food and Culture Gab Chabrán also suggests the following:
A meal at Brophy Bros.’ Ventura location will require a drive north of about six miles, but totally worth it for beachside dining. (Note that there is a second location that is much further north, in Santa Barbara, so GPS accordingly.) Consider calling ahead for a reservation or using Yelp’s waitlist. Brophy Bros. lands on LAist’s Beach Eats list for its views, and its seafood, including their fish and chips:
A post shared by Brophy Bros. Ventura (@brophys_vta)
A post shared by Toppers Pizza Place (@topperspizzaca)
Toppers Pizza is a family run and family-friendly chain known for keeping a tight menu of pizzas, salads and sandwiches. And what they do, they do well.
A post shared by Carnitas El Rey (@carnitaselreyoficial)
If you love all things carnitas, then you need to make your way to Carnitas El Rey.
Any suggestions for great hikes in and around L.A.? Don’t keep it to yourself! Let us know, and we might check them out for a future story.
LAist is part of Southern California Public Radio, a member-supported public media network.